Vermicompost

Vermicomposting is the process of breaking down or composting organic matter using worms. Vermicompost is much quicker and easier than traditional composting. This is due to the fact that a worm can eat their weight in organic matter everyday, and they leave behind a richer by product with more nutrients than other composting methods. The worms also do all the work for you, no need to turn over the pile like traditional composting. Vermicompost bins are odor free and compact and can be placed in the garage, basement, patio, or even your kitchen. This means no more cold or rainy walks to the compost pile.

So do your part and stop sending your organic matter to the landfill. Instead create black gold for your garden, flowerbeds, or lawn. Your vegetables will taste better, your flowers will be brighter, and it is all completely organic, no chemicals.

Using Vermicompost as a Soil Additive

For new beds or open ground, add an 1/8″ to 1/4″ layer of vermicompost and work it into the top layer of soil. For poor soils work in as much as an 1″ of vermicompost into the top foot of soil.

For existing beds and gardens you can add a layer of vermicompost to the top of the soil and allow the rain to slowly wash it into the soil. You can also dig small trenches around your plants and work the vermicompost into the soil as you back fill the trenches. Existing beds and gardens can also take advantage of vermicompost tea, which is talked about in the compost tea section of this website.

To improve your lawns soil you can add an 1/8″ to 1/4″ layer of soil over top of the lawn. For even greater results, you should see the top dressing section below.

Using Vermicompost with Potted Plants

House plants will greatly benefits for vermicompost. When planting or transplanting, simply mix up to 30% vermicompost in with your potting soil and plant as usual. You can also add a layer of vermicompost to the top of the soil for existing plants. Vermicompost tea may also be used for your periodic feedings.

Using Vermicompost with New Plantings

When planting new trees and shrubs, work up to 30% vermicompost into the soil in the bottom of the hole, as well as when back filling. This will really get your plants established quickly.

Top Dressing Your Lawn with Vermicompost

Top Dressing your lawn involves creating a mixture of sand, loam, and vermicompost and then evenly distributing it over your lawn. Top Dressing your lawn is probably the best thing you can do to improve the soil and to level out your lawn. Overly sandy soils get enriched with organic matter which improves the water retention and nutrient content. Clay soil improve due to the hummic acid and organic matter, which helps to break up and soften the soil, improve drainage, and increase healthy root growth. The added layer of soil also encourages root growth and stimulates new shoots, making your lawn denser.

The best lawns receive a top dressing annually, but even one application will make a huge difference. Top dressing is best done during the fall, but I wouldn’t hesitate to top dress in the spring or summer provided you water the lawn properly. Also take it slow, each application should leave no more than an inch of top dressing in any one spot. If you add to much the grass will die under the layer of soil leaving bare spots. Also top dressing should be applied last. If you plan on aerating, scarifying, or dethatching the lawn do these steps first. The top dressing will then be better able to reach the soil.

For Sandy Soils
• 1 part sharp sand
• 3 parts loam
• 1 part vermicompost

For Average/Loamy Soils
• 3 parts sharp sand
• 3 parts loam
• 1 part vermicompost

For Clay Soils
• 3 parts sharp sand
• 1 part loam
• 1 part vermicompost

Sharp sand is angular sand that is often sold as builder’s sand. It is not beach sand, beach sand has been smoothed by the tumbling in the ocean. Angular sand allows for better air capacity in the soil. Loam is soil composed of sand, silt, and clay in about even proportions. It is the preferred soil for gardening and has a crumbly, sandy texture. You can also use top soil or old potting soil instead of loam.

The top dressing will mix best when it is dry, and it is suggested that you screen the components through a 1/4″ screen before mixing. Removing the large chunks will help the soil reach the roots, rather than laying on top of the grass. Mix the components in small batches. I mix mine in a trash can, with just enough top dressing that I can easily carry it. Another good idea though is mixing in a wheel barrow.

Now that you have the top dressing mixed, take a shovel and spread it evenly over the whole yard. I like to make several small layers over the yard, This keep you from using too much in one spot, and helps to create a uniform thickness. Next take a rake, and level out the top dressing, filling in low spots and making sure the soil penetrates the grass. On big yards you might consider using a lute which is a large flat rake built for this purpose. You could also make one yourself with a 2×4 attached to a rake.

Once you are statisfied with the top dressings level, you can water the lawn. Make sure to give it a good soaking the first day, but not so much water that you wash the top dressing away, apply the water slowly. After that make sure the lawn stays properly watered for two to three weeks after. Once the lawn has taken hold, you can go back to your normal watering schedule. You will notice that your lawn remain much more lush and dense without any extra maintence.